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Building a Keezer

Building a Keezer

The steroid induced equivalent of a kegerator.

Everybody loves kegerators, but the one downside of them is the lack of variety. Unless you have one that comes with a significantly large fridge, you are typically restrained to a half or about two 1/6 kegs, but this also depends on the tap system you have installed. This is where the keezer comes in. A keezer is the ingenious way to take a chest freezer, rather than a fridge, and turn it into a draft system.

Simple to build, a keezer allows you to tap many beers. The setup below lets you tap at least four 1/6 kegs at a time, but a larger chest freezer is readily available, allowing you to tap even more kegs. As long as you have the space left, the keezer is easy to update and add more draft lines to. You merely have to drill through a wooden board rather than the fridge itself. The keezer is even more ideal for homebrewers who would prefer to keg their beer rather than bottle. A decently sized keezer would easily allow you to have eight homebrews on draft simultaneously.

Most, if not all of the parts needed (aside from the freezer), are available at your local homebrew shop.

What you need:

  •  Chest Freezer (we used a 7 cubic ft. size)
  • (2) 2x2x10 Boards
  • (16) 3/8” – 7/8” Hose Clamps
  • 15’ of 1/4” Beer Line
  • 12’ of 5/6” Gas Line
  • Portable Thermostat
  • (3) Draft Spouts
  • (3) 3.5” Nipple Shanks
  • 3-way Gas Manifold
  • (3) Tap Handles
  • CO2 Regulator
  • CO2 Tanks
  • (22) 2.5” Wood Screws
  • Silicon
  • #2 Rubber Stopper
  • (3) Sankes (type depends on what kegs you are tapping: ball locks for homebrew; American most domestic craft beer; European most imports; etc.)
  • Tools (saw, power drill, faucet wrench, and tape measure)

How to Assemble:

Step 1: Remove the lid from the chest freezer: simply unscrew the bottom part of the hinges. The hinge should remain attached to the lid.

Step 2: Measure the width and depth of the top of the freezer.

Step 3: Cut boards to frame out a box to fit on top of the freezer.

Step 4: (optional) Paint the wooden frame. We chose chalkboard spray paint, but any type of paint or stain will work.

Step 5: Silicon around the top of the freezer and place frame on top. Make sure it’s centered and let dry for required time on silicon package.

Step 6: Place lid on top of wooden frame and attach hinge to the frame.

Step 7: With 1” drill bit, drill 3 holes into the front of the frame. Location is up to you and where you would like your faucets.

Step 8: Gently push nipple shanks through the front of the holes just drilled. Fasten on with included bolts.

Step 9: With faucet wrench, attach faucet taps to the front of the nipple shanks.

Step 10: Attach thermostat to the back of the wooden frame using 2 wood screws.

Step 11: Drill 3/4” hole into the back of wooden frame.

Step 12: Plug inside of the hole with #2 rubber stopper and place probe end of thermostat through the stopper (it will dangle inside the cooler to regulate temperature).

Step 13: Attach gas manifold to the inside, back of the wooden frame using supplied mounts and four wood screws.

Step 14: Cut gas hose to desired length. We recommend it to be long enough to place CO2 tank on the outside if necessary. The rest needs to be cut into 3 pieces to run from the manifold to the kegs.

Step 15: Place hose clamp on each end of the tube. Push tube over nipples on the CO2 tank and manifold and then fasten on with clamps. Repeat with tube being connect from each manifold nipple to the three keg sankes.

Step 16: Follow the same steps and connect the beer lines from the nipple shanks to the sankes. Three even length pieces should work fine.

Step 17: Tap three kegs of your choice, turn on the CO2 tanks; make sure all the valves are turned to the “on” position. Then, you are ready to pour yourself draft beer at home.

Optional: We painted ours with chalkboard paint, allowing the frame to multi-task as the beer list.

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